Sabudana, also known as tapioca pearls, has become a quintessential food during the fasting season in India, especially during Navratri. From crispy vadas to creamy kheer, or a comforting bowl of khichdi, sabudana finds its way into many fasting dishes. But have you ever wondered how these tiny white pearls became so popular in India? The story behind sabudana’s journey to Indian kitchens is tied to a royal legacy and survival during a time of crisis.
The credit for bringing sabudana to India goes to Ayilyam Thirunal Rama Varma, the 19th-century ruler of the kingdom of Travancore (present-day Kerala). The introduction of tapioca, the root from which sabudana is made, was part of an effort to combat famine in the region. Tapioca, originally from Brazil, was recognized by the ruler and his brother, Visakham Thirunal Maharaja, as a vital food source that could help the population survive during times of food scarcity.
Visakham, a skilled botanist, saw the potential of this starchy root as a lifesaver for the starving population. However, locals were initially reluctant to consume the new crop, fearing it was poisonous. To build trust, Visakham Thirunal had tapioca prepared and served to him in the royal palace. His public endorsement convinced the people that it was safe to eat. Known locally as kappa, tapioca quickly became a popular food in Kerala, especially during times of famine and rice shortages, including after World War II.
While tapioca became well-established in Kerala, sabudana as we know it today took longer to spread across India. Sabudana itself didn’t make its entry until 1943, when the first crude production units were set up in Salem, Tamil Nadu. These units processed starch extracted from tapioca into the small, translucent pearls that are now synonymous with fasting foods across the country. Although sago, a similar product, had been part of Southeast Asian and Chinese cuisine for centuries, its presence in Indian kitchens is relatively recent.
Today, sabudana has become an essential food during festivals like Navratri, offering a light yet energy-boosting option for those observing fasts. Popular dishes such as sabudana khichdi, vadas, papads, and payasams are a testament to its versatility in Indian cuisine. Sabudana is not only a source of sustenance but also deeply linked to cultural and religious practices.
Its close relatives, such as boba (used in bubble tea) and cassava flour, have gained international recognition in recent years. However, sabudana remains unique in its historical and cultural significance in India. The legacy of Ayilyam Thirunal Rama Varma’s introduction of tapioca continues to thrive, as sabudana has become an irreplaceable part of India’s fasting traditions.
What began as a survival food during a time of famine has now become a staple in Indian households, particularly during religious observances. Ayilyam Thirunal Rama Varma’s contribution to Indian cuisine is not just a footnote in history, but a testament to how necessity, culture, and tradition can shape the food habits of a nation. Today, sabudana is celebrated not just for its nutritional value, but also for its deep-rooted connection to India’s culinary heritage.
