Though every day of the year should be a celebration of womanhood, in the run-up to International Women’s Day on 8 March, it is time to celebrate their individual achievements. A noteworthy woman entrepreneur leading the pack is Varuna D Jani, Founder of House of VDJ and Ruani, a popular jewellery collective in Mumbai. Referring to herself as an ‘Adornologist’, Jani stands out in the competitive jewellery industry. She joins The Daily Guardian for a chat about her business and her journey as a female entrepreneur.
Varuna D Jani
DANCING EARRINGS by MARIE MAS – one of each 
Earrings by Mike Joseph
ALIMINIUM BLOOMS by Anabela Chan
Excerpts:
Q. Why did you enter this field?
A. I was born into the jewellery business as the daughter of Ramchand Popley, and so at the age of eight, when most kids sketch cartoon characters, I sketched designs! I loved spending time with my father and still do, so as a child, during my summer vacations, I would accompany him to his store and sit there and create these designs with diamonds and all sorts of colourful gems. I didn’t realise it then, but now I know that I was born to create beautiful jewellery.
After marriage, I moved to Dubai. The UAE expanded my vision as a designer, by exposing me to many different styles. It shaped my design aesthetics. Eventually, I came back to Mumbai in 2008 and began to assist my father, and created my own jewellery. The feedback I got regularly was that my designs were ‘different’ and had ‘international appeal’. So I launched the brand Varuna D Jani. In 2021, I expanded to create ‘House of VDJ’ which houses Ruani Collective.
Q. What was your vision for Ruani Collective?
A. Ruani was launched on 7 October 2021, in the midst of a pandemic. This was a time when every industry—and the luxury sector in particular—was reeling from losses. However, one of our greatest losses was that of talent.
I had always wanted to create a platform where new, upcoming and established designers could showcase their work without the fear of overheads looming large; a space to incubate talent in a way that is economically viable. Ruani is the answer to this problem. The shared space creates a sustainable platform and offers customers a wider variety. At Ruani, patrons can choose from fourteen designers, each with their own distinct and eclectic style. My vision is to bring designers to the fore and help them live their dreams. In the future, I hope to take Ruani to new heights by bringing the collective to the Capital city and eventually to Dubai, where I’ve spent many years of my life.
I also want Ruani to give back, particularly to women. Hence I’ve created the VOW (Very Own Wish) foundation, to which I will contribute part of the profits from sales. I’m narrowing in on NGOs that work towards the skill development of women. Essentially, VOW is an investment in women to help them earn their own living, become independent and pursue their careers, goals and dreams.
Q. How do you select the designers you work with?
A. At the moment, we have fourteen jewellery designers, including three international names. I choose designers with their own distinct styles to avoid any overlap. This helps the customer gain more. For instance, Anabela Chan appeals to people who are heavily invested in sustainability and committed to the environment, Mike Joseph is avant-garde, Marie Mas appeals to those looking for something dainty and delicate. We are always looking for new talent and will keep adding designers to our roster over time. I look for people who are passionate about their work. I believe jewellery should not be seen merely as an object, instead, we need to bring back the joy of adorning it. I want my pieces, and every piece at Ruani, to grace a woman as a symbol of her investment in herself—a celebration of her body and her being. Our other designers include well-known names like Suhani Pittie, Chhaya Jain, Aditi Amin, Shachee, Latique, Tallin, Sankesh Surana, Sonal Sawansukha, and my own signature line, Varuna D Jani. Holding the designs together is in-store curator, Trisha, who also has her own line that appeals to youthful, discerning customers. At the helm with me is my co-founder Divyesh Shah.
Q. How has the jewellery industry changed since you first entered it?
A. People in India still view jewellery largely as a monetary investment and not as a work of art. When I created Varuna D Jani, I was among the few players bringing fine jewellery to the market. Over the years, I have tried to impress on the fact that buying jewellery is about investing in yourself. Fortunately, I see a positive change happening.
A challenge that I faced when creating Ruani was to show industry players that we can grow together, rather than compete against each other. Ruani is a space where ideas are shared. This in turn promotes healthy competition and helps us grow together. Simply put, growing together is my vision for Ruani, as also for the VOW foundation.
The writer pens lifestyle articles for various publications and her blogs www.nooranandchawla.com. She can be reached on nooranand@gmail.com.
‘At Ruani, patrons can choose from fourteen designers, each with their own distinct and eclectic style. My vision is to bring designers to the fore and help them live their dreams.’
