There was a time when chefs were chefs, but nowadays we have a plethora of prefixes to identify them. Some prima donnas like to be addressed as “celebrity chefs”, while others identify themselves as “master chefs.
Then there are “Michelin-starred chefs” who, it is believed, have unfurled India’s culinary flag in different continents, and there is no dearth of “heritage chefs”—repositories of long-lost recipes threatened with extinction and traditional tricks of the trade.
Those who have completed the required courses and graduated from a catering school or institute in the United States or abroad believe that interlopers have seriously devalued and diluted the designation. What has added to the confusion is that, at times, qualified professionals keep juggling with the hats they wear.
There are entrepreneur/partner/owner chefs, and the latest wave to surge like a tide is that of home chefs. Home chefs are not considered professionals in the strictest sense of the word as they are neither armed with prescribed qualifications for the trade nor employed in a hotel or restaurant. Ironically, they cook regularly—twice every day in most cases. They are housewives or homemakers.
Late Jiggs Kalra, food impresario extraordinaire, often used to say that these women, young and old, are the real custodians of our culinary heritage. They possess rare recipes handed down the generations as family heirlooms no less resplendent than heavy silks, brocades, and jewelry.
Home chefs too—at least some of them—have mastered the art of juggling the hats they wear. Some have participated in TV reality shows titled eponymously, and as winners and runners-up, they have joined the select Master Chef group. Others have made the transition to hotels as consultants on regional, sub-regional, or ethnic cuisines. Authors of well-researched cookery books have also discovered it useful to branch out into hands-on commercial cooking. Regular “pop-ups” by home chefs in starred hotels is an emerging trend that can’t be missed.
In the capital alone, home chefs have allowed lovers of food to indulge in regional delicacies from different parts of India. Rani Jinsi has cooked the Kashmiri Pandit Waazwan and managed not to repeat her menu. The perennial favourites are there, of course, but much of the fare showcases lesser-known delicacies. Revolving menus are specked with Anglo-Indian Tea Garden roasts.
Sneha Lata Saikia has introduced the flavours of Assam and the North East. Besides the pop-ups, she has come up with the novel concept of “table for six. Guests are invited for specially curated meals at her CR Park residence and enjoy exotic food in convivial company.
Mrs. Beg offers a small but delicious repertoire of Hyderabad-biryani, mirchi ka salan, baghare baigan, and double ka meetha from her home in Paschim Vihar. Prema Kurian’s guarantees a fabulous Kerala spread that is inspired by her striving to introduce non-Malayalis to the diverse gastronomic heritage of her state.
Sirittiya Bora, with her husband Anirban (who, alas, is no longer with us), introduced resplendent Thai and Bengali dishes that explored exotic flavours beyond cliches. From the small kitchen in their flat in Indira Nagar Aroi, the graphic artist couple’s brainchild reached out to all corners of the NCR.
In Mumbai, Rushina Munshaw Ghildhiyal has spearheaded the revival of Gadhwali food from Uttarakhand. Like Sneha in Delhi, she is a brilliant curator of meals for a small number of invited guests.
The menu keeps changing seasonally. Rushina is a best-selling author, a consultant, an educator, and she collaborates with leading chefs on a regular basis. She is interested in traditional knowledge about ingredients, nutrition, and seasonality.
It isn’t as if all home chefs are women. Rajesh Raghunathan, in Chennai, a qualified business management graduate, better known as the “singing chef,” breaks many stereotypes. He has anchored many TV shows on cooking with his mother. His food and travel show unveiling southern India for North Indian audiences (in Hindi) was simply amazing. He represents the younger generation of Indians who listen to their hearts and aren’t afraid to take the less travelled path.
The lockdown imposed due to Covid-19 has adversely impacted home chefs. Hotels shut down suddenly and “pop-ups” ceased. The small takeaway business was ruined before it could take off.
Some families were devastated by deaths caused by Covid-19. Among the casualties were Anirban and Mr. Jinsi. Babeeta Saksena, who was very active in providing a platform for home chefs and organising in different cities, was also claimed by the virus.
With conditions limping back to normal, home chefs have started to prepare for the second act. Their debut had kindled interest in their work. Support isn’t wanted either.
The renowned foodie and food impresario Rocky Mohan has launched Home Chef Ping to assist gifted home chefs with branding and marketing. We wait with optimistic anticipation for the charge of the Home Chef Brigade!
