The Shekhawati region, often overlooked by mainstream tourism, offers one of Rajasthan’s most unique Diwali experiences. This collection of small towns, famous for their painted havelis, celebrates the festival of lights in a manner that combines mercantile heritage with local traditions, creating a distinctive celebration unlike anywhere else in India.
A Region of Painted Mansions
The towns of Shekhawati, particularly Mandawa, Nawalgarh, and Fatehpur, are home to hundreds of painted havelis, elaborate mansions decorated with unique frescoes. During Diwali, these architectural marvels are illuminated in ways that highlight their extraordinary artwork. The painted walls, depicting everything from religious scenes to early airplanes, take on new life in the festival lighting.
Merchant Traditions Meet Festival Spirit
Shekhawati’s history as a merchant region influences its Diwali celebrations. The traditional Chopda Pujan (book worship) ceremony, marking the beginning of the new financial year, is celebrated with particular grandeur here. Local business families open their private havelis to visitors during this time, offering a rare glimpse into these preserved pieces of history.
Living museums come alive.
Many of Shekhawati’s havelis function as living museums, and during Diwali, they organize special exhibitions showcasing the region’s history. The famous Morarka Haveli in Nawalgarh and the Podar Haveli in Fatehpur arrange guided evening tours where visitors can learn about the unique architectural style while enjoying the festival atmosphere.
Desert Town Illuminations
The semi-arid landscape of Shekhawati provides a dramatic backdrop for Diwali celebrations. The towns organize traditional lighting competitions, with entire streets coordinating their decorations to create themed displays. The flat rooftops of the havelis become stages for elaborate lighting arrangements visible from the narrow streets below.
Fresco Artists and Their Modern Interpretations
During Diwali, the region’s few remaining fresco artists demonstrate their skills, creating festival-themed artwork using traditional techniques. Workshops are organized where visitors can learn about the natural pigments and lime plaster techniques that made Shekhawati’s frescoes famous. Some artists create temporary Diwali-themed artworks on designated wall spaces.
Local Marwari Cuisine
The festival brings out the best of Shekhawati’s distinctive Marwari cuisine. Local specialties include ker sangri (desert beans and berries), Marwari kadhi, and bajre ki roti (millet bread). The region is famous for its unique Diwali sweets, particularly the milk-based mishri mawa and ghevar. Many havelis organize cooking demonstrations featuring traditional recipes.
Rural Festivities and Village Life
The villages around the main towns of Shekhawati offer glimpses of rural Diwali celebrations. Local families invite visitors to participate in traditional ceremonies, including the lighting of the first diya and the creation of folk rangoli designs. The evening air fills with the sound of traditional Shehnai music and folk songs.
Handicraft Revival
Diwali markets in Shekhawati showcase local crafts, including lac bangles, block-printed textiles, and blue pottery. Artisans from surrounding villages bring their wares to town, creating temporary bazaars filled with festival goods and traditional crafts. The markets are particularly known for their hand-painted wooden toys and traditional jewelry.
Cultural Performances in Historic Spaces
The courtyards of major havelis host cultural performances during the festival period. Unlike the tourist-oriented shows elsewhere, these feature authentic local art forms like Kathputli (puppet shows), Kalbeliya dance, and Manganiyar music. The performances often incorporate stories from local history and mythology.
Architectural Photography Opportunities
For photographers, Shekhawati during Diwali offers unique opportunities to capture the interaction of festival lights with historic architecture. The painted facades, when illuminated, create stunning visual compositions. The best photos can be taken during the golden hour when the desert sun combines with the first festival lights.
Hidden Chambers and Secret Passages
Many havelis open their normally restricted areas during Diwali, allowing visitors to explore hidden chambers and underground passages. These spaces, once used for storing valuables, are specially lit during the festival, creating an atmospheric journey through merchant history.
Accommodation in Heritage Properties
Visitors can stay in restored havelis, many of which maintain their original artwork and architecture while offering modern comforts. These properties organize special Diwali activities, including traditional games, craft workshops, and cultural performances. Some even arrange for guests to participate in family Diwali celebrations.
Planning Your Visit
The best approach is to base yourself in one of the main towns (Mandawa, Nawalgarh, or Fatehpur) and explore the region over several days. The weather is pleasant during Diwali, though days can be warm. Local guides are essential for accessing private havelis and understanding the historical context.
The Painted Stories of Shekhawati
The region’s famous painted havelis tell countless stories through their frescoes, and during Diwali, special guided tours focus on the festival-related artwork hidden within these mansions. Expert guides point out rare depictions of how Diwali was celebrated in different eras, from medieval times to the British period. The frescoes show everything from traditional gambling scenes to elaborate firework displays of the past, providing a fascinating historical record of festival celebrations.
Merchant Communities and Their Traditions
The Marwari merchant families of Shekhawati maintain unique Diwali traditions that blend business with celebration. The traditional Chopda Pujan ceremony includes elaborate rituals specific to this region, such as the worship of ancient trading ledgers, some dating back several generations. Many merchant families open their private museums during this time, displaying historical artifacts, traditional accounting systems, and ancient trading documents.
The Art of Fresco Conservation
During Diwali, several havelis organize special demonstrations of fresco conservation techniques. Conservation experts show visitors how these precious artworks are maintained and restored using traditional methods. Some workshops allow participants to try their hand at basic fresco cleaning and restoration techniques, offering a unique behind-the-scenes look at heritage preservation.
Traditional Jewelry and Accessories
Shekhawati is famous for its distinctive jewelry traditions, and Diwali brings special exhibitions of family heirlooms and traditional designs. Local jewelers demonstrate ancient techniques like thewa work and kundan setting. Many havelis display their collections of traditional Marwari jewelry, including rare pieces that show the evolution of design over centuries.
Folk traditions and rituals
The towns of Shekhawati maintain several unique folk rituals during Diwali. The tradition of ‘Jhalara’ involves creating elaborate rangoli designs using grains and pulses, which are later donated to temples. Another distinctive custom is the ‘Path of Lights,’ where entire neighborhoods create connected rangoli patterns that form a continuous illuminated path through the streets.
Shekhawati’s Living Crafts
The festival period showcases the region’s living craft traditions. Artists specializing in lac bangles create special Diwali collections using traditional techniques. The art of teliarumal, a distinctive textile printing method, is demonstrated in special workshops. Local wooden toy makers create festival-specific pieces, including traditional games and decorative items used during Diwali celebrations.
The Role of Water Architecture
The region’s distinctive water architecture, including wells, step wells, and joharas (water tanks), plays a special role in Diwali celebrations. These structures, often adorned with frescoes themselves, are illuminated in ways that create stunning reflections. Some communities maintain the tradition of floating hundreds of diyas in these water bodies, creating memorable photo opportunities.
Architectural Techniques and Tours
During the festival, special architectural tours focus on the unique construction techniques used in Shekhawati’s havelis. Experts demonstrate how the buildings were designed to create natural cooling effects and how the frescoes were integrated into the architecture. Visitors can learn about traditional building materials and methods, including the creation of natural pigments and lime plaster.
Modern Interpretations of Tradition
Contemporary artists in Shekhawati are creating modern interpretations of traditional motifs, and Diwali provides a showcase for this fusion of old and new. Several havelis host exhibitions where modern artists display works inspired by traditional fresco techniques but incorporating contemporary themes and materials. This creates an interesting dialogue between historical and modern artistic expressions.
Extend your stay to explore the region’s other attractions, including camel safaris in the nearby desert, visits to local craft villages, and exploration of lesser-known painted havelis in remote villages.
